Riding the dream - Ladakh - IX: Hanle!

 A nice bed, yummy, hot dinner and hearty conversations meant a good nights sleep! Woke up fresh and energetic early morning by around 530. Yearned for another walk through the village, just could not have enough of Merak's charm! The moment I stepped out, noticed a few distant mountains receiving rain. It was a magnificent sight! Climbed on top of the house where I was staying using the ladder placed for this purpose to click a nice shot. The mountains on the other side seemed to have received a bit of fresh snow overnight.

Made a cup of nice and hot green tea for myself, and started packing and loading the bike. The family from Delhi was heading back to Leh, whereas I would be going further to Hanle. There was no mobile network whatsoever, and I knew that's going to be the case for the next 3 - 4 days at least, until I get closer to Manali. I had no idea of the road ahead, and presence of vehicles/ people was only going to be thinning further.

I would be lying if I said I was not nervous. Anything could go wrong, and there might not be any help available for miles! In such situations, there are always 2 choices - keep worrying, and more likely than not those fears indeed come true, or surrender to the will of the almighty and do your best.

Had breakfast, bid goodbyes to the family from Delhi, promising to be in touch. While I was on the way to Pangong via Shyok, a local couple at one of the dhabas the previous day insisted that I visit the war memorial at Rezang la on the way to Hanle, so that was going to be my first pitstop today. 

Today was going to be extreme offroads for the most part. Tar roads existed only after Loma, which practically was only the last few kms.

Started looking for the way towards Chushul. After asking a couple of souls I could find, started my journey. The terrain opened up to vast plains, with only tyre marks to guide your way. As expected, sighting humans became rare, and I was all by myself. The cold was really picking up, and the weather started getting nasty, with strong winds and slight rain. After a few kms, with my initial inhibitions gone and me making peace with all the unknowns and possibilities, I began to truly enjoy the weather and the ride. As a storm was building up, at a distance I could see the tip of a mountain getting a fresh spray of snow, nature's artwork at full display! It was as if the almighty was getting his daily dose of art by spray painting a mountain top...A sight only my human 'camera' could capture and 'store' in my memories forever as a sight to behold!

Noticed a huge Indian flag at a distance, and that meant I was already near the mighty Rezang la memorial. While I was riding on a trail, I noticed another parallel trail adorned by a few military trucks. I did not pay attention and continued towards Rezang la.

My heart was filled with pride and patriotism as I parked my Xpulse in the open parking lot, me being the only guest out there early morning. Had some warm water, and entered the immaculately maintained, massive Rezang la memorial. Was surprised to have a Jawan walk me through everything on offer in there, providing intricate and heart wrenching details of the China war. Paid homage to all the brave soldiers who made the ultimate sacrifice and I was on my way further, onwards to Hanle.

As it turned out, the parallel trail I talked about earlier was Chinese territory!

The stretch further had lots of water crossings, the open plains were intriguing, and offered some excellent views! It was the terrain the Xpulse was most suited for, and I was having a blast! Met couple of friends from MP riding on the Classic 500, carrying the whole tent + sleeping bags + gas stove setup, and cursing riding so heavy on these treacherous off roads. Had a hearty 15 minutes conversation with them over a sip of warm water. Such multiple events made me realize that connecting with people is actually so simple and fulfilling. 

Reached Tsaga la and stopped for brunch - a plate of piping hot momos and the customary Kahwa.

All the offroad took a heavy toll on one of the aux lights mounting arms, and it gave away. Quickly tied them up with tags, and was (unnecessarily) very generous with the use of tags :)

After Tsaga la, the terrain changed completely, with red soil and rocks in between, making for incredible sights. I came across this 'Maane' - buddhist prayer wheel with mantras inscribed on them. You spin the wheel clockwise, and the locals believe you would accumulate blessings thru the created vibrations and sounds. After learning about this, especially after the tyre puncture incident, I would invariably stop at every opportunity to spin the wheel, thank the almighty for me making it this far, and hope for a smooth rest of the journey. Only those going through such a journey, especially with no modes of communication and support around, would realize the significance of places like these. No wonder these are centers of positivity!

I knew I was almost at Loma when I sighted this magnificent bridge.

Crossed the border checkpost at Loma after submitting a copy of the Inner Line Permit and hit black tarmac right away. Hanle was not far away now!

I had read about 2 popular home stays in Hanle - Padma and Milky way. Based on recent reviews, I had decided to check out the latter first - and to my surprise I reached there only to find out that it is full. Was surprised further to know that Padma was full too! I don't know what day of the week it was, but this was totally unexpected. I checked a few other places but with no luck. As I was wandering around, saw a group of bikers heading out. Caught up with one of them and asked where they were staying, with the hope that they had checked out, and I could give it a try. And the trick worked!

 

However, since I was alone, the owner was not ready to give a full room to myself. Settled with him giving me a mattress in the dining area. The winds at Hanle were strong and extremely cold. I had first impact of altitude - carrying my luggage just for a few steps on a upward slope left me puffing for air.

Later that evening, two friends from Hyderabad - Pankaj and Mani checked in to a room in the same homestay. I caught up with them over dinner, and we hit it off instantly. They, too, planned to visit Umling la the next day. I was glad to have company - since it was going to be a tricky journey.

After having another fulfilling ride, it was time to call it a day!

Distance - 180 kms

Route - Merak - Chushul - Rezang la - Tasga la - Loma - Hanle

Total saddle time: 6 hours 

Elevation: 4,500M (14,764 ft), + 1000M (3,281 ft).

Continue to the next chapter